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That's right my fans (Mom and Auntie Kim), I have arrived safe and awesome in Halifax, thus ending my bike trip....OR DOES IT?!?! No, it does not. I actually plan to now finish up that last pesky little chunk of Canada that I did not get to do at the start due to my knee injury / late departure. So once I get into Vancouver I will ride home to Vernon! For anyone in Vernon who reads my blog, come on down to Kal beach to greet me and have fun in the sun on Tuesday, July 20th sometime between 3:00 and 6:00 PM. Without further prattling however, I present the last stages of my ride: Ottawa to Halifax.

Saturday, July 3rd, Day Forty-Two: I was disappointed that I didn't get to pose in front of a "Welcome to Quebec" Sign, since I crossed into Quebec straight from Ottawa, into the city known as Gatineau. The entire city felt strangely deserted, but that impression soon dulled as I made my way to the busier outskirts. This is where all the fast food places are to be found, next to the highway #148, which I was planning to ride as far east as possible. The day grew hot quickly, as the sun burned off all cloud cover and left me exposed to its unforgiving heat, beating mercilessly down upon my shoulders. I was happy with my decision to take this road however; it was a lot less busy than the highways on the Ontario side (that close to Ottawa) and it gave me a beautiful landscape to admire, all rolling hills and farmlands surrounding the River (I believe it was still the Ottawa River). Around 3:30 I arrived in LaChute, where I had a lunch of yogurt and fruit, then picked up a map book of Quebec. I made an executive decision then and there that I was just going to cut Montreal out of the trip entirely. I had been worrying about it for some time, I had heard lots of bad things about trying to bike through it. Plus, I knew that since I was fresh off a rest day I would not be staying to visit, so why bother with the hassle? I saw that I could easily avoid it by simply staying on the North side of the St. Lawrence river, which would bring me right to Quebec City, a place I was much more keen to visit anyway! So that is what I did. I turned onto Highway 158, and rode my butt off. The land quickly flattened out, becoming even more full of farms and strangely reminiscent of the prairies, except with a whole lot more corn. I worried about finding a spot to camp in all this farmland, but I managed to find a thick copse of pine trees in between two farms, just past Laurentides. It was the first time I have camped on what I believed to be private property, always sticking to crown land otherwise. I paid for my boldness with a night of worry after I heard what sounded like either quads or dirtbikes just outside the trees; I was SURE they were looking for me. Luckily, my awesome brown tent fly kept me well hidden, and I was asleep by about 10:00.

Sunday, July 4th, Day Forty-Three: Up bright and early, I made my way carefully out of the trees and got back underway. I was amazed by how flat the land was, it was actually miles and miles of corn in every direction. The sky was dark with thunderclouds as well, but that did not worry me. One thing I kept noticing was that just like in France, every town no matter how big or small, had a large old-fashioned church, with steeples and belltowers and everything. The whole countryside reminded me of the French countryside actually, and the people were just as nice (that is to say very nice indeed!). I took second breakfast in Joliette (a huge one, I discovered I had more money in my account than I had thought) where I met a nice French couple who chatted me up over coffee and cigarettes. They still smoke on patios and outside restaurants here, which just shows how far from home I was; that would get you fined in a second back in the west! After breakfast I picked my way through the city to eventually find the Highway again, and was on my way. The couple had seemed insistent that it was madness to shoot for Quebec city that day, they said it was almost 350 Km away, so I was inclined to agree. Once I got to Berthierville however, which is where I made another Highway switch to get to Trois-Rivieres, it became apparent that it couldn't be much past that to Quebec City, they were less than 100 km apart on my map! Determined to make it if I could, I started eating up the kilometres, standing up more often than not and giving it everything I had. The only time I slowed was when I met a German guy named Alays, once again, having met him the night before. He was also riding to Halifax, from Vancouver, and he also thought that Quebec City was closer than the French couple thought. I left him behind and cruised into Trois-Rivieres around 3:30. It was a long city, I had to pick my way through just like in Joliette, and I emerged on the other side about 4:00, where I decided to stop for a poutine. It was MASSIVE, meant for a family it said, but I ate it all and wished for more... Anyway, the next sign I saw proclaimed that Quebec was 122 Km away, and it was almost 5:00, but I was in one of those stubborn moods where I decided I was GOING to make it, no matter what. The rain and hills started about 7:00, as the St. Lawrence came back into view. Lots of up and down and little small towns. All the houses had a lawn on both sides of the road, the one on the right side (MY right) always included a path down to the River. It was almost 10:00 when I got to the LAST 20 Km before the city, which is ALWAYS the hardest. Disaster struck however, in the form of a flat tire 15 km outside the city. It might even be my fault, I had decided to just take the freeway into town, even though it said not to (it's illegal, as in most towns) and I obviously picked up a staple there. I was rescued, however, when I phoned the guy I had been planning to stay with, Benoit. Despite having never met me, he drove what must have been 25 km from his house to come look for a dirty, wet cyclist on the side of the freeway. That's just how awesome he is. He brought me back to his place and set me up on a huge memory-foam mattress, where I was promptly asleep.

Monday, July Fifth, day Forty-Four (Rest day): I had lots to do that day, much of which never ended up happening because I sat around most of the day reading my book! Once I got the tire off my bike, I noticed that I had also managed to pop a few spokes, which would have to be fixed before I could set out. So I decided to wait for Benoit to get back from work to tell me where a bike shop was. In the meantime, like I said I just had a lazy day, only going out to get lunch before heading back home. It was also outrageously hot, and even worse because it was super humid, I was glad to not be biking in temperatures like that! When Benoit got home around five, He reminded me I had to move out of the spare room because he had promised it to a Spanish couple that was a arriving that night. So I set up the old tent then Ben gave me a ride into town to get my wheel fixed. After he dropped me off at the shop, I gave them my wheel and went for a bit of a walking tour of Quebec City. It was AWESOME. Such history, and such architecture in that old city basically built onto the side of a hill, with a wall surrounding the entirety of it. I found out it is nearly the oldest city in North America, having been founded in 1608. I went and picked up my tire at around 7:00, then tried to find my way home. I got thoroughly lost, but managed to figure it out after hopping on the bus Benoit told me to take home. When I arrived there, everyone was out on the patio having dinner. It was Spanish omelette and Salmon Pate, both of which I think I ate half of. Everyone was amazed at my appetite, even myself! There were actually two couples that were staying there, the Spanish one and a Swiss / German couple. Plus Benoit and his partner Mathieu. Before heading in, everyone started talking about the Cirque du Soleil show they were all going to the next night, they were saying it was free! I had planned to leave the next day, but decided on the spot to stay an extra day to see the show.

Tuesday, July 6th, Day Forty-Five (Rest Day): Just your usual rest day stuff. I did a little tour of the city on my bike, then met back at the house around 5:00 as per everyone's agreement. I was in the middle of journalling when everyone was getting ready to go, and they asked if I was coming. It was not even 6:00 yet, and the show didn't start until 9:30, so I assumed we were going out to eat before-hand. I wondered what was up when we drove about 15 Km beyond the city to the east, and parked in some residential neighbourhood. I was still not sure what we were doing as Benoit brought us all past some old house, talking about how it was at one time (before it burned down) the oldest house in Quebec. Where we were was quickly answered for me as we came around the corner though; a HUGE waterfall was cascading into an enormous river right in front of me. Montmorency falls stands 30 metres taller than Niagara falls, and sits in a beautiful little provincial park. I was just floored. We walked all around it, but didn't go down to stand in the spray, which was disappointing, since it was super hot out. Afterward, we went back to the house and had burgers, and since I didn't chip in for them, I offered to clean up so everyone could head out to the show, which was about a twenty minute walk away. I didn't need as much time to get there, since I had planned to bike, so I cleaned up and headed out around 9:00. The show itself is held under a bunch of over-passes just outside the old city, which I thought was really neat. The line up of people was just being let in as I arrived, so I found Benoit and the gang and joined the throng. Excitement was in the air; there were a lot of tourists with no idea what to expect (me included!). As the last light faded from the horizon, the music started, and so began the show. I could not describe it in detail here, it would take far too many words and it would still fall far short of what I saw. The entire show was amazing in a way I did not know possible. It was so primal, and contained so many feats of human achievement, I found myself actually inspired. There was only the slightest hint of showmanship, and it was beautifully tied in, everything was so well done. After the show I actually realized my jaw was hanging open. I was electrified, the cool night air as I biked home somehow felt as alive as I myself did. I even slept better that night, thinking about the spectacle I had just witnessed. I was so glad I stayed the extra day

Wednesday, July 7th, Day Forty-Six: I took the ferry across the St. Lawrence rather than the bridge, since the bridge was 15 km back west, then 15 km to get back to the point I was standing at. Plus it was only 3 bucks, so I figured why not. I left Levis (Across the river) around 10:30, and boy was it HOT. I was quickly covered in sweat, going through bottles of water at an astonishing rate; I must have drank six or seven that day! I was not surprised to find more farmland on this side of the river, the land was flat enough for it! Plus, I thankfully had a tailwind, so I was in a great mood since I had had way too few of those on the trip, almost none in fact. I was hoping to be able to find a cheap campsite for the night, so sweaty was I that I was willing to pay for the right to shower, but I could find nothing less than 20 bucks. So I just kept pushing on. When I climbed one hill though, outside Notre-Dame-du-Portage, the wind was suddenly....fresh. Gone was the heat, and oppressive humidity, being replaced by salty sea air, at least 10 degrees cooler. It was so invigorating. I guess that that far east the St. Lawrence becomes more salty and like the ocean, cooling the surrounding area. When I arrived at Riviere-du-Loup, I checked out the local hostel and decided to stay, since it was only $22. So for only $2 more than I would have payed for a campsite, I got my own bed, all the amenities, and free breakfast. I felt quite pleased with myself that night.

Thursday, July 8th, Day Forty-Seven: It was time to head south towards New Brunswick. I knew there were hills coming, but I hoped it would be nothing I couldn't handle. The road climbed up and up, but there seemed to be just as many down, which was a good break from all the climbing. Once again there was that heat, as always accompanied by the humidity (I come from an arid section of Canada; I like the dry heat!). I was just as hot and sweaty when I arrived in Edmunston as the day before, but unfortunately there was not a hostel in town. Besides, I was aware that I was running low on cash, and that I had to be careful about getting too used to hostelling it! So after a quick bite I headed out again. I camped in what seemed like a tree farm, the way the trees were all planted in rows.... but I met no one who told me to leave, so I was asleep as usual by 10:00.

Friday, July 9th, Day Forty Eight: I awoke to find my tent covered in slugs of every shape and size. It was disconcerting, and it threw me off a little when I had to spend the first ten minutes of my day picking slugs off my tent ... My plan that day was to make Fredericton, 236 km way. It was a lofty goal; the freeway was still a roller coaster of hills, but I felt I needed to make it. I had a place to stay there, so I figured it wouldn't matter if I got in late, I just had to make it. Unfortunately my old nemesis 'Head-Wind' was back, in a big way. It was incredibly frustrating, the combination of hill and wind, and I was totally clawing for every kilometre. By about noon, I was burned out, ready to call it quits. I had barely gone 50 km, and I was tired already, so I turned down a hill to go to the nearest town and take lunch and re-assess my plan. The town was Perth-Andover, on the opposite side of the St. John River as the freeway. During lunch, I checked out a map, and realized that there was a smaller highway running on this side of the river all the way to Fredericton, the #105. I decided to give it a go, figuring that at the very least it would be less hilly than the freeway, since it ran alongside a river. It was about 10 km down this highway that I discovered "The Ways." (I am going to nerd it up for a second here, so anyone who wishes to avoid said geekery had better read past.) In "The Wheel of Time" series, which I started reading on this trip, there are these things called the ways, and they are a bit like portals, only you have to actually travel along paths inside of them, instead of just teleporting (Which would be crazy, right). Anyway, these paths cut your journey time down from months to days, but you do have to travel them in any case. The point of all this is that I was so strongly reminded of these ways by the paths I found. These paths run parallel to the highway the entire way down, as part of the Trans Canada Trail. They run parallel, except because they are built on an old rail-road bed, they run flat when the road takes its many ups and downs. So by riding these trails I was able to cut hours off what I would have taken. PLUS, the "Ways" were covered for the most part by trees, which cut the still substantial headwind down to almost nothing! Buoyed by this new success, I was flying towards Fredericton. I even took a break at a little swimming hold on the side of the paths for an invigorating and refreshing dip. When "The Ways" finally ended, about 80 Km from Fredericton, it must have been about 6:00 PM, but I was set on Fredericton that night. I crossed back over the River to the freeway at Southampton, and saw my first sign for Fredericton since leaving the freeway that morning: 58 Km. Checked the clock: 9:15. I planned to make Fredericton for 11:30, and got underway. If I thought the hills before were bad... the freeway now rose and fell in increments of kilometres, all the way to the city. I took a quick refuel break in Kingshead, 34 Km away. Full dark had fallen by this time, but it did not dissuade me. In fact, it only strengthened my resolve to get going. It seemed to take FOREVER to get the last 10 km done, but I finally rode onto Benjamin's lawn at 11:45. I was so so sore, but after a quick shower I was also STARVING, so I rode out and got myself a sub, then hung out with Benjamin and his Friends until 3:00 am.

Saturday, July 10th, Day Forty-Nine (Rest Day): A really Slack Rest day, almost so far as to say lazy. Although I DID clean the houses bathroom ,feeling obligated to step in and do something; It was DISGUSTING. I felt better afterward, about not doing anything, so I just hung out most of the rest of the day. I did not even go get new inner tubes, although I was out, which is a decision that came back to bite me in a big way...

Sunday, July 11th, Day Fifty!:  I was 417 Km away from Halifax, so I figured two days to the Coast. I got right under-way and was making really good time, cruising towards Moncton. I took a quick lunch in what I think was Phillips town, but I;I'm not sure. The reason I did then was because a sign said "Next Service:77Km". I was about 10 Km or so past that sign when I ran into Alays again. I tell you, that old German guy is a MACHINE, to be keeping up with me. I mean, I have been setting a pretty blistering pace, and that was like the 5th time I've ran into him! So we talked for a bit, then I got underway, hoping to make Moncton by 5:30-6:00. Unfortunately, it was about 30Km past the next service sign that I got a flat tire, and like I said, I had no more spares! I was not worried, I mean, I had a patch kit! So I pulled over and got everything ready, when the rain started. I mean  a proper downpour, being pushed right into my face by a sudden headwind. I did the best I could to put a patch onto a semi-wet tire, but before I even got the bike back on the road, the tire was flat again. I had no choice but to ride on flat tire for another 5 km till I found an over-pass to shelter under and try again. As I waited for the patch to dry, I decided to call Denis and mel, who were another couple I had met on CouchSurfer.com, and asked If I could make an un-scheduled stop that night at their place. They said it was a-okay, and I was glad I had written down their number, even though I had had no intention of stopping in moncton. Thankfully the second patch seemed to hold, but I avoided riding hard because that put extra strain on the tire. Thankfully, I was only 38 km outside moncton! Not so thankfully, by the time I was within 10 Km (About 2 hours later, at 7:00!), the light rain turned into the worst storm I have EVER seen. The rain was now a Deluge, being forced once again right into my face by headwind, soaking every inch of me and my gear that wasn't covered. By the time I arrived at the house, I might as well have gone swimming. I was just too happy to have a place to stay to care, and once I was warmed and dried and fed, I felt ten times better, even though it was obvious now that I wouldn't be making Halifax next day Like I had hoped.

Monday, July 12th, Day Fifty-one: It was a really Low day for me, I felt really crappy for some reason, down-right depressed. I think it is because I awoke late, not even getting on the road until about 10:30 (Although I definitely stopped and picked up spare tires!!!). The feeling of being beaten down and weary followed me all the way to the Nova Scotia Sign, where they quickly evaporated under the Realization that I had made it to Nova Scotia!!!! I was elated, and the weather seemed to shift to accompany my mood. The storm clouds evaporated as I climbed the toll Highway. ALTHOUGH, I have got to say that I was REALLY upset on that whole section of highway. There would be a perfectly good shoulder, if it weren't for the fact that it is covered in rumble strips! I had the choice of riding soft shoulder or just on the edge of the road, and I chose road. So there were some close calls, usually from jack-asses in their cars who seemed completely un-willing to give an inch, even though I was clearly visible from MILES away. Anyway, I camped just off a quad trail outside of Truro, in what I hope will be my last stealth camping of the trip (not that it isn't fun, I'm just ready to be getting back into bed!

Tuesday, July 13th, Day Fifty-Two: ARRIVAL!!!: After waking up in the morning to a soaking wet tent (and putting away said wet tent) I decided to celebrate my soon to be arrival in Halifax by spraying the can of Bear mace I had carried the whole trip. It was obvious I would not be able to carry it on the plane, and I was so curious at how far and strong the stream was. It was cool! Bright orange foam shot about a meter and a half in front of me. Very Satisfying. Not much to remark on the ride this day. I ate an  enormous stack of pancakes for breakfast (I actually skipped the oatmeal in celebration) then got under way. Those last 100 KM seemed to take FOREVER. And as I got about 23 Km from the City, the land started to rise up, and I climbed a hill for 5 Km (I know it was that long because those awful awful markers they have every Km allowed me to count the Kilometers as they passed) so I was looking forward to the big downhill that was to come. When I was forced off the Highway by the start of "Controlled access Freeway" however, I was shocked and confused to look over and find....Ocean. Somehow I had rode uphill 5 KM to arrive at... Sea Level. I got over my outrage as I rode into the City I had long thought of: Halifax. I knew it would be anti-climactic to get there, so I wasn't disappointed, per se, but I was still feeling sad. Sad it was over, sad I didn't have a huge crowd of people waiting for me, just,  not Happy. But I suppose after a trip like the one I just took, the ending cant ever be anything but Sad. In any case, I contacted Gretchen of the Sierra Club Atlantic Chapter, since she had offered me a place to stay, and we met and I got a key. Later on, after she was off work, we both went to a sort of BBQ for "Break the Silence" Which is a human Rights watchgroup. It was a fitting ending, eating Spanish food at a party full of Activists. I even bought a "Growler" which is quite literally just a jug of beer. I didn't think anybody kept beer in jug form since like the 1900's, but I guess they just never stopped over here on the east coast....

Wednesday, July 14th, Day Fifty-Three: Today has been a day of rain, leaving a somber mood throughout the town and myself. Well, not quite somber, more....reflective. Gretchen and two others from the Atlantic Chapter office gave me a fine "Official Reception" In from of the Legislative building in Downtown Halifax, then we all went down to the harbor so I could dip my bike and foot into the water. My plan to jump right in was de-Railed by the insistence of everyone here, who all say the harbor is FULL of sewage. So I settled for what I could get! in any case, I sit now in the Atlantic Chapter head office, having just spent nearly Three hours typing this post out. So I will skip my "Final thoughts" for now, since I am ten levels of tired of typing. Like I said before however, be sure to watch for a final post, since I plan to finish up those last 600 or so Km from Vancouver to home!

Stay safe!

Liam

Oh and I WILL post the rest of my trip pics, I know I haven't put anything up since Regina, but they are coming some point between now and a few days after arriving home I promise!